Trangallan’s daily-changing menu lists mainly rustic Spanish tapas. A salami board was generously piled with five Spanish meats, including chorizo, jamon (air-dried ham), and a sobrassada – a soft Majorcan ‘sausage’ which tasted of smoked paprika, served in glass jar like paté.
Traditionalists might raise a brow at the ‘tortilla 2012’. A modern twist on the Spanish classic, this tortilla was deconstructed and served inside a martini glass: a layer of melting onions, then a layer of potato purée, topped with a runny egg yolk. While the smooth concoction tasted fine, it lacked the melded textures of a traditional tortilla.
Homely dishes such as a hearty stew of tender pork cheeks on a bed of borlotti beans, or pan-fried sea bass with jerusalem artichokes, are more typical and evoke the Spanish table.
Portions are on the generous side, but save some space for the outstanding ‘sweet tapas’ selection. On our visit this included a trio of desserts: smooth chocolate ganache garnished with fleur de sel and olive oil, a sherry glass of refreshing pineapple-basil juice, and a traditional crème caramel.
One of the founders is a former sommelier, and the wine lists reflects this with a good selection of sherry styles by the glass. The table wines cover the new Spanish regions as well as good-value wines such as an Austrian blaufränkisch. There are also some natural wines, including a red vinho verde from Portugal – served chilled in ceramic bowl, it had pleasingly sour cherry notes.
61 Newington Green N16 9PX
020 7359 4988